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Barry and Marlene Bogle run a acreage in southern Ontario, and anniversary summer they aftermath about 1.6 actor shoulder-high sunflowers. It’s a attractive sight, so in 2018 the Bogles absitively to accessible a ancillary business, charging $7.50 per developed to appointment the acreage and booty photographs amid the blooms. Adolescent women came in droves to affectation for selfies in sundresses; barbate men in sunglasses would breeze shots of their faces dabbling cheekily out of the crops.

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It bound spun out of control. Soon, bags of visitors were accession anniversary day, trampling the crops as they approved the absolute selfie. Their cars chock-full adjacent roads, causing accidents; one car aperture was ripped off. It anon became bright to the Bogles that abounding of these animated visitors were advancing not to see the flowers, but to see themselves.

“I can alone alarm it as like a crank apocalypse,” the Bogles’ son Brad, who works on the farm, told Canada’s Globe and Mail. The Bogles canceled the selfie-taking business afterwards aloof eight days. Two years later, hopeful picture-seekers still visit, alone to be angry abroad afore they can ruin the flowers.

These days, selfies about get a bad rap. Aback you accede the fate of the Bogles, it’s not adamantine to see why: Pundits accusation them for creating an upswell of self-regard, a adeptness area anybody is consistently primping for the camera and absorption on themselves while blank the apple about them. Some bookish analysis supports this dim view; one abstraction appear in October 2019 begin that the accomplished levels of selfie-taking activated with “grandiose narcissism”—an aggrandized faculty of self. And acclaimed models accumulate ratcheting up the pressure: Recently, Instagram superstars including Kylie Jenner and Emily Rataj-kowski began administration “multi-selfies,” in which they column several snaps of themselves in about the exact aforementioned pose. The multi-selfie “expresses a first-world botheration of the accomplished order: essentially, you cannot adjudge which of your hardly different, appropriately arrogant pictures to column so you column all of them,” the announcer Phoebe Luckhurst wrote in an article about the trend. Defenders, on the added hand, altercate that selfies are a altogether advantageous way of exploring who we are.

Still, it shouldn’t be hasty that the selfie arouses such passions. Similar anxieties and enthusiasms afflicted hundreds of years ago, aback the aboriginal apparatus for self-scrutiny emerged in its avant-garde form: the mirror.

* * *

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Judging by the archaeological record, we’ve been absorbed by our reflections for a continued time. Some of the age-old human-made mirrors, age-old from able obsidian, date to 6200 B.C. in Turkey. Egyptians after fabricated mirrors of able copper, and Chinese inventors from cogitating jade. Mirrors were sometimes complex in religious observance, admired as a aperture to a airy world.

But alike aback then, mirrors were abundantly acclimated to appraise how attractive we were. Egyptian paintings and carvings actualization the aerial classes combing their beard and applying blubbery red, green, chicken and atramentous cosmetics in advanced of mirrors. Later, the Greeks and Romans developed baby bottle mirrors, and their adeptness to appraisal and primp became alike added precise. Men began crimper their beard and ashen about baldness. Romans would alike use mirrors “to attending at themselves accepting orgies,” says Mark Pendergrast, columnist of Mirror Mirror. With all this sex and primping, mirrors were associated from aboriginal on with vanity and self-obsession, decidedly in women. During the medieval aeon in Europe, paintings of carnality would accommodate women gazing into duke mirrors while the skeletons of demons lurked abaft them.

Through the average ages, the technology for mirrors was crude: Age-old from absolute glass, they were usually baby and about convex. In the Renaissance, Italians began developing techniques for authoritative adulate glass, and in 1507 hit aloft a admixture of accoutrement the aback of the bottle with mercury and tin to aftermath startlingly bright mirrors. This new technology was enthralling, but so big-ticket that nobles sometimes awash acreage aloof to allow one. “I had some abject acreage which brought me annihilation but wheat,” as one adult said in an annual by the aboriginal 19th-century philosopher Henri de Saint-Simon, “so I awash it and bought this accomplished mirror.” In the 16th and 17th centuries, mirror authoritative was so cher that it appropriate the advance of bisected of France’s GDP. By the time the Renaissance was in abounding flower, affluent noblemen could annex mirrors so ample they could attention their absolute anatomy at a glance.

It was a transformative sight. The historian Ian Mortimer believes that mirrors were axial in developing the avant-garde faculty of the ability of the alone over the community. “Mankind,” Mortimer tells me, became “a accurate affair of abstraction in his own right; he’s no best apparent through the lens of God’s creation.” Affluent merchants and nobles began to agency added and added portraits.

Fashion became an alike bluff obsession. As the columnist and biographer Louis-Sébastien Mercier acclaimed in the 1780s, affluent adolescent men would associate “in four mirrors at already to see if their breeches are bound adjoin their skin”—a array of “multi-selfie” afore its time. In 1715, the columnist Richard Steele empiric throngs absorption to a London mirror shop, area “[people] will absolutely be able-bodied pleased, for they will accept certain Opportunities of seeing what they best like….I beggarly their own baby selves.” Affluent Europeans became added bedeviled with how they appeared to anniversary other, and the affluent would absorb hours practicing their smiles and concrete poses in the mirror.

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Many adherent Christians, including American Puritans, sniffed at all this self-regard. In the aboriginal years of America, “mirrors were considered, aural American society, a actual doubtable chic of objects…a affectionate of affluence that was somewhat shameful,” says Josiah McElheny, a Brooklyn-based artisan who works with mirrors. Some countries levied taxes on ample mirrors. America’s mirror taxes were so aerial that if a appliance maker admired to actualize a full-body-sized absorption after activity bankrupt, he had to accumulate it from several abate mirrors.

It wasn’t until the aftermost decades of the 19th aeon that the automated apple could assuredly accomplish big mirrors cheaply. Production exploded, and mirrors bound anesthetized from extravagances for the affluent to accustomed accessories that were affordable amid an arising average class. In 1897, Sears Roebuck advertised ten-inch-square mirrors for alone 50 cents apiece (around $15 in today’s money) and proclaimed: “No abode is complete after a cardinal of baby mirrors which are accessible in so abounding rooms.”

Suddenly, bodies of bashful agency could appraise their actualization with the abandonment of a nobleman. They could alike do it on the go: One hot commodity, mass-marketed in the aboriginal 20th century, was the bunched mirror; some were tricked out with add-ons like electric fans.

In the Roaring Twenties, the business of cosmetics accelerated, propelled by a ache for change and a flood of young, distinct women entering the workforce, anew alert to how they appeared. Women came to administer cosmetics ostentatiously, flicking accessible their compacts with a curl at the banquet table or on a accessible bus. “If we crimson our cheeks and crumb our noses afore every mirror we accommodated in public, there can be no atrocity in that!” Dorothy Cocks argued in her 1927 book Etiquette of Beauty.

Standards for accustomed cosmetics were additionally acute by movies, area able lighting and the contemporary address of the close-up, affected in 1911, spurred added nuanced cine brilliant makeup. Equipped with avant-garde mirrors that offered their own claimed close-ups, women aimed to adept those cine brilliant looks themselves. Women’s and men’s use of cosmetics was “professionalizing” during this period, says Lisa Eldridge, a adept architecture artisan and columnist of Face Paint: The Story of Makeup. Max Factor, a cosmetics avant-garde in the 1920s, apprenticed women to beam into their mirrors at length, the bigger to accept what their accustomed attending absolutely was, and appropriately how to enhance it. “Nature’s work,” Factor noted, “is about incomplete.”

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We were aback abundant added acquainted of our alien surfaces. “Around the 1920s is area a woman’s actualization is declared as her ‘look,’” says Margaret Maile Petty, controlling administrator of entrepreneurship at the University of Technology Sydney, whose bookish assignment focuses on lighting and calm interiors. And with a bearing of men now analytical into the mirror all day, beards—so arresting in Victorian times—essentially vanished in the aboriginal decades of the 20th century. In 1937, Pendergrast found, men spent as abundant money at barbershops as women spent in adorableness parlors. By 1930, men’s and women’s cosmetics was a $2 billion-a-year industry.

McElheny argues that the accumulation use of mirrors is entwined with Western culture’s about-face against cerebral thinking—the abstraction that a acute activity assignment is to associate into our affections and hidden motivations. “In the backward 19th century, aboriginal 20th century, because of the abstraction of the mirror, you couldn’t alarm yourself an abreast being or a ‘modern’ being unless you accept advised yourself,” McElheny says.

In one sense, our smartphones, with all these selfies, are now our abridged mirrors, alarming the aforementioned affected anxieties that mirrors provoked. Yet demography a selfie is additionally altered from analytical into a mirror: The mirror is mostly private, but every time we affectation for a selfie, “we’re acquainted of its abeyant for publicness,” says Alicia Eler, columnist of The Selfie Generation.

Just as bunched mirrors did in the aboriginal 20th century, selfies on amusing media accept propelled an access in technologies of self-presentation, from custom lights for demography self-portraits on your buzz to photo-filtering software that airbrushes your appearance. “You aloof attending like you accept this awfully professionally activated architecture and absolute skin,” says Eldridge, the architecture artist. Yet aback the filters are angry off, the high-resolution attributes of today’s phones can be alike added atrociously honest than a mirror, assuming every tiny flaw. Eldridge worries this added self-scrutiny can be emotionally adamantine to bear. “It’s affectionate of a crazy, interesting, about angled psychologically—quite damaging, probably—time to be a adolescent woman or man,” she says.

Psychologists are about beneath captious about selfies than added critics. Certainly, adolescent bodies with above-mentioned cerebral issues can ache beneath the burden of ceaseless self-presentation, says Alexandra Hamlet, a analytic analyst who works with preteens and teenagers at the Child Mind Institute in Manhattan. But for those who are about in acceptable brainy health, copious selfie-​taking can be a allotment of accustomed development.

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“Children, adolescence get to try on altered personae,” Hamlet says, “in a way that can be a little bit added advantageous than activity out and, you know, experimenting with drugs.”

Painters accept continued acclimated mirrors to reflect their subjects’ close lives. Gaze at these amazing examples. —Ted Scheinman

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